Security is an issue in Cape Town and almost every house displays a plaque from their security company as a deterrant to would be burgalars. Obviuosly you don't want to mess with these guys but not evertone can afford the ultimate protection: 
Thursday, 7 February 2008
Those who have and those who don't
Security is an issue in Cape Town and almost every house displays a plaque from their security company as a deterrant to would be burgalars. Obviuosly you don't want to mess with these guys but not evertone can afford the ultimate protection: 
Homeward Bound
Saturday was the start of the long journey back to the UK. It started with a 20 hour coach journey back to Cape Town and then a 15 hour plane ride back to the UK. Not only that but I learn the weather is 6 degrees C in the UK and it is 30 degrees C in Port St John.
Not only are there extremes in temperature but as I travel back to the western world I become consious of the extremes of wealth and poverty in South Africa. In Port St John people of living on 5 rand a day which is about 35p. A teacher in the school in Sisonke is paid 1000 rand a month or £74. Admittedly the cost of living is a lot cheaper and life is more laid back in this part of the world. However walking through the tourist spots of Cape Town I am suddenly aware of the number of white faces snapping up pictures of Table Mountain. In the harbour is the cruise ship "The World." How many of those passengers will experience the real South Africa?
Not only are there extremes in temperature but as I travel back to the western world I become consious of the extremes of wealth and poverty in South Africa. In Port St John people of living on 5 rand a day which is about 35p. A teacher in the school in Sisonke is paid 1000 rand a month or £74. Admittedly the cost of living is a lot cheaper and life is more laid back in this part of the world. However walking through the tourist spots of Cape Town I am suddenly aware of the number of white faces snapping up pictures of Table Mountain. In the harbour is the cruise ship "The World." How many of those passengers will experience the real South Africa?
Friday 1st Feb
Today it is my last day and we spent the morning at the school finishing off the path to our shelter. Already the shelter is being used by Prince. He is a helper in the school who teaches the children local craft. Here he is making some money boxes and jewelary boxes with the children which he hopes to sell for 100 rand which will pay for their school fees for a month.
Before I leave the school we have a photo session. The children love have their pictures taken and once they get hold of your camera they are busy taking pictures of all their mates.
We returned in the afteroon to the jetty where we put the finishing touches to the chicken run.
In the evening it was time for my leaving do and to see the sun go down over Port St John for the last time.
Wed 30th
Today we visited the site of the Sicambeni Rural University. The idea of this is to show the local community how to use permaculture on their land to provide a variety of fruit and vegatables not only to support the family but to sell for profit.
The staple crop in the area is maize and cabbage so providing a more nutritious diet is a priority.
The project here started last August with one garden which has been cultivated. The next phase is about to start with agreement being reached with the local chief to hand over 2 more gardens to the project which are to be used for cultivation.
We returned to the Jetty in the afternoon to plan our next task which is to build a chicken run. The job has a urgency as one of the local hens has laid 15 eggs which are due to hatch in the next 10 days.
In the evening we had a visit from one of the school teachers for our lesson in the local Xhosa language before going to the Amopondo Backpackers Hostel for a leaving drink as it was Carrie's - a volunteer from Seattle - last night.
The staple crop in the area is maize and cabbage so providing a more nutritious diet is a priority.
The project here started last August with one garden which has been cultivated. The next phase is about to start with agreement being reached with the local chief to hand over 2 more gardens to the project which are to be used for cultivation.
We returned to the Jetty in the afternoon to plan our next task which is to build a chicken run. The job has a urgency as one of the local hens has laid 15 eggs which are due to hatch in the next 10 days.
In the evening we had a visit from one of the school teachers for our lesson in the local Xhosa language before going to the Amopondo Backpackers Hostel for a leaving drink as it was Carrie's - a volunteer from Seattle - last night.
Tues 29th
Over the last couple of days we have been working on the shelter. This has meant getting all the wood to the school, cutting and fastening it all together wirth our unique design. The roof is made of bamboo which we found along the banks of the river. We spent several hours cutting it down using a "borrowed" machette and transporting it up to the school.
Sunday 27th
Today we visited Magwa Falls. We started off with a hour drive - most of it on rough track through some remote villages to our destination.
Although described as a tourist attraction there are no trappings of tourism life gift shops or street vendors. Just two signs of western influence - an abseil rope and a zip wire. The waterfall is impressive - 106m wide dropping into a 240m gorge.
Although described as a tourist attraction there are no trappings of tourism life gift shops or street vendors. Just two signs of western influence - an abseil rope and a zip wire. The waterfall is impressive - 106m wide dropping into a 240m gorge.
On the crest of the waterfall local women are doing their washing.
Luckily not many blankets are being washed away over the top of the waterfall today.
We did a 10k hike which does not sound a lot in the searing heat it was draining to say the least. We walked along the top of the gorge and then decended steeply to a village at the bottom of the gorge where we had a traditional lunch of pap and cabbage. Then it was the long hike up the side of the gorge back to the pick up. Along the way we have to ford a couple of fast flowing rivers We are told that the local children do this hike everyday to their school ay the top of the gorge. The school being so remote that they have difficulty in recruiting teachers as they would have to live in the community.
Sat 26th
Today Tom and myself are off clay hunting with Patrick. The idea is to get some clay so that the kids can use it to make things at school.
Patrick is a bit of a character and is in charge of another local project - the local orphange. We head off in his buccie to this remote village in hunt of our source of clay. The only problem is that Patrick has not been clay hunting himself for 2 years and in that time the village has expanded. People have built houses on the outskirts, they have brought and are still bringing electricity to the village and paths which existed 2 years ago are barely recognisable today. This was his excuse for the amount of running around we did in search of a patch of mud. To make it worse he tells us that the locals cover over a patch of clay after they have dug some out. He takes us down this valley in search of this stuff explaining that it was just behind this bush and under that tree.
In the end we find a spot and start digging, transferring the contents into plastic bags to haul back up to his buccie.
It also gave us an insight of what life was like living in remote villages. Only now are the huts getting electricity. This consists of a power line from a lamp post into each house and then to a single socket. If the owners can afford it they can switch on a light at night.
In the afternoon we take a walk into Port St Johns which includes crossing the River Mzimvube by a passenger ferry. This consists of a raft powered by a Honda outboard motor. We later learn that until last year the ferry was a rowing boat but a freak wave caught it one day and four of it's passengers were drowned.
Friday 18th
Friday is normally an easy day and today was no exception. We all went to Forest Glade which is a garden that Dianne owns in which she grows a lot of the fruit and vegetables we eat using the same permaculture techniques as in the Sicambeni Rural University. That is of soil improvement and sustainability. This garden was forest when Dianne first came here but now it is an oasis and test bed for a whole range of plants from mangoes to banana and carrots to coffee. The picture shows a bunch of bananas we picked from the garden and are hanging up to ripen at the jetty.
The garden will eventually be used by the volunteers as a place to stay overnight. At the moment it boasts one of the best views from a toilet in Port St John and an outdoor bathroom - see the pic:
After a bit of gardening Dianne takes us for a walk along this jungle path to a waterfall where some of us cool of with a swim.
We then follow the river back to the Jetty for a rest and recover for tonight we are off to the night life in Port St John and a visit to two of the pack packers hostels for a few beers and shots a couple of the volunteers are leaving tomorrow.
Saturday, 26 January 2008
Thursday 24th
Today we put the finishing touches to our mural before starting our next task which is to build a compost bin. This is not you average compost bin but one about 3 metres long and 1 metre wide. The plan is to turn over part of the grounds in the Jetty where we stay into a garden. The garden will then be used to grow vegetables for consumption by the volunteers and project team thus helping towards self sustainability which is at the heart of the project.
In the afternoon it is back to the school to work on another task - that of building a shelter. This is to provide some shelter from the sun for when there are some small groups of children need to do a craft class or one to one teaching.
Wed 23rd
This morning we continue painting our mural and add some detail now we have some more colours.
Once again in the afternoon we go to the school in the afternoon to do some more work but this time we are frustrated by the fact there is no power. Apparently this is a common occurance not only in Port st John but the whole of South Africa. The rate of economic growth over the last 10 years has outstripped the supply industry and there is a shortfall in electric output meaning that the supply comapany has to ration consumption and imposes power cuts in a number of locations around the country when demands peak.
Once again in the afternoon we go to the school in the afternoon to do some more work but this time we are frustrated by the fact there is no power. Apparently this is a common occurance not only in Port st John but the whole of South Africa. The rate of economic growth over the last 10 years has outstripped the supply industry and there is a shortfall in electric output meaning that the supply comapany has to ration consumption and imposes power cuts in a number of locations around the country when demands peak.
Tuesday 22nd
Tom(another volunteer from the UK) and myself have agreed to paint a mural in the jetty with the aim of giving other volunteers an onverview of the projects. We begin with finding some basic materials such as paint and brushes. We find some white paint which seems to have been used for painting buildings. Dianne has purchased some small pot paints -that is what they look like- but are in fact a strong dye and when mixed with the white paint gives us a range of colours to play with. After a morning at this we are transported to school for an afternoon session of running repairs.
School finishes at 2.30 so we are able to go into the classrooms and check on the desks. As they were made in such a rush some of the bolts and screws have come loose making them wobble to say the least. Now we have better materials we are able to do some running repairs.
Tonight is full moon and we learn that there is a party and drum playing at a beach cafe. On the beach there is a group of people playing African drums around a fire. After the consumption of a bit of alcohol and other substances we see some of the locals practicing the art of Poi. This is dancing with a pole around you body which is lit and bellowing flames at each end. Quite an impressive sight on a deserted beach in the light of a full moon.
Tonight is full moon and we learn that there is a party and drum playing at a beach cafe. On the beach there is a group of people playing African drums around a fire. After the consumption of a bit of alcohol and other substances we see some of the locals practicing the art of Poi. This is dancing with a pole around you body which is lit and bellowing flames at each end. Quite an impressive sight on a deserted beach in the light of a full moon.
Monday 21st
Visited school and sat in on class 4. This is situated in a converted garage which means there is not much light or ventilation until they open the garage door. I asked the teacher what I could do to help and she presented me with a list with 6 names of her pupils who needed one to one tuition. This ranged from help with maths, writing to reading. I was told that some of these children aged up to 10 were attending school for the first time. IN the Eastern Cape, one third of children do not complete basic schooling.
Sunday
Day off and picnic at river. There was a beach there but it had been washed away with recent rain.
Saturday 19
Collecting stone from disused farm to make a floor in a rondaval. At the moment it is covered in cow dung
Evening visit to local airfield to see sunset. Old military base used for filming of ......
Evening visit to local airfield to see sunset. Old military base used for filming of ......
Friday 18th
Easy day with a half day wandering around PSJ. Main market town but not as you would expect. Two supermarkets but not as we know them
Thursday 17
Visit to Mama Pots and the garden used as an example to the local community. More to follow
Wednesday, 16 January 2008
Wednesday 16
School starts at 8 so we get up early to see the children arrive for their first day at school.
The youngest are 5 and the oldest are 10 and within all this age range this may be their first day at school. However this being Africa registration does not take place right on the dot and there is a trickle of parents bringing their children to school and this will last all day. Many will be walking for miles and we witness some being turned away because the school is full.
The youngest are 5 and the oldest are 10 and within all this age range this may be their first day at school. However this being Africa registration does not take place right on the dot and there is a trickle of parents bringing their children to school and this will last all day. Many will be walking for miles and we witness some being turned away because the school is full.
Tuesday
It is hot, humid and exhausting work but we manage to assemble the desks one by one. There are 2 main class rooms and these are cleaned out and then the teachers can start laying our their materials.
They now have 57 children registered and more parents are turning up all the time to register their child but the limit has been reached and these children are put on a waiting list. The school is not a state school so parents are assessed on how much they can afford to contribute towards books and fees.
They now have 57 children registered and more parents are turning up all the time to register their child but the limit has been reached and these children are put on a waiting list. The school is not a state school so parents are assessed on how much they can afford to contribute towards books and fees.
Monday 14 January
All night long it has been pouring with rain and it makes a terrific noise on the corragated iron roof of the bungalow. It is still pouring with rain as we attempt to make our way to the school. The roads are flooded and there is a torrent of water pouring of the mountainside bringing with it a whole load of debris. After negotiating several inpromptu rivers of water we finally arrive at the school.
Our plan works well but our promised supply of hardware fails to materialise. In addition we find that a whole lot of wood which was going to be cut is under several inches of water and is a write off. However we persevere with preparation by drilling holes and cutting more wood. Then shortly after 12 there is a power cut......
This lasts until about 2.30 and puts back our schedule. We finish what we can do at 4.30 and some volunteers agree to return in the evening to carry on with the work.
Dinner at the Jetty is rounded off with a cup of locally grown coffee
Our plan works well but our promised supply of hardware fails to materialise. In addition we find that a whole lot of wood which was going to be cut is under several inches of water and is a write off. However we persevere with preparation by drilling holes and cutting more wood. Then shortly after 12 there is a power cut......
This lasts until about 2.30 and puts back our schedule. We finish what we can do at 4.30 and some volunteers agree to return in the evening to carry on with the work.
Dinner at the Jetty is rounded off with a cup of locally grown coffee
Day 1
There are eight volunteers and for the next few days our efforts are concentrated on the school project. The new term starts on Wednesday and they are expecting upwards of 40 children.. We have to make 9 desks from off cuts of wood. We have a template to work to, some bolts of the wrong size - more promised tomorrow - and some tools in various state of repair.
At the end of the day - well 4 o'clock - we have one desk partially assembled!
We return the Jetty to make a plan of what is needed to be done - in theory.
At the end of the day - well 4 o'clock - we have one desk partially assembled!
We return the Jetty to make a plan of what is needed to be done - in theory.
The journey
Our coach finally arrives an hour late. After frantic scenes of loading belongings we set off a little after 6 to join a snare up due to some illegal parking. Much car horns blowing we set off along what is known as the garden route. This is a very scenic route from Cape Town to George. However as it was now dark it I just have to take what the guide book says is true.
The coach stopped at filling stations every couple of hours which made sleeping difficult as most people would get off, rush to the toilet and then to the shop all in a 10 min (allledged) break.
As day bole we headed inland to Georgetown which looked as it had not changed since 1900. Travelling through the countryside I was struch how green everything was. There are scatterings of villages all spawling across hillsides. Some villages had power as you can see a series of poles with wires dangling towards each shack. A few meters away from each one was a smaller hut - the site of the family toilet. We pass sites of former Zulu battles - did you see the film Zulu?
Into bustling King Williams Town and we have street vendors come onto the bus selling ices and sweets.
The main road is A class standard sometimes dual carriageway but straight and flat making for a smooth ride. As we pass Butterfield I notice someone has taken to eating fresh food to the limit. There is a Toyoto pick up truck laden with fruit and vegatables and on the roof is tied a live goat.
Finally we arrivin Umtata - the capital of the former Transkei captial. We meet up with our contact for the 45/60minute journey to Fort St John.
We are based in a bungalow called the Jetty situated beside a river (name ?) which means Hippo. There are no hippos left in the river now. We were told there are no crocodiles in the river now because the sharks eat them.
POrt t JOhn is an isolated community not yet commecialised or indoctrinated by Wester living in other words traditional African.
We stay the night at the Amopaondo Backpackers hostel and meet our fellow volunteers.
The coach stopped at filling stations every couple of hours which made sleeping difficult as most people would get off, rush to the toilet and then to the shop all in a 10 min (allledged) break.
As day bole we headed inland to Georgetown which looked as it had not changed since 1900. Travelling through the countryside I was struch how green everything was. There are scatterings of villages all spawling across hillsides. Some villages had power as you can see a series of poles with wires dangling towards each shack. A few meters away from each one was a smaller hut - the site of the family toilet. We pass sites of former Zulu battles - did you see the film Zulu?
Into bustling King Williams Town and we have street vendors come onto the bus selling ices and sweets.
The main road is A class standard sometimes dual carriageway but straight and flat making for a smooth ride. As we pass Butterfield I notice someone has taken to eating fresh food to the limit. There is a Toyoto pick up truck laden with fruit and vegatables and on the roof is tied a live goat.
Finally we arrivin Umtata - the capital of the former Transkei captial. We meet up with our contact for the 45/60minute journey to Fort St John.
We are based in a bungalow called the Jetty situated beside a river (name ?) which means Hippo. There are no hippos left in the river now. We were told there are no crocodiles in the river now because the sharks eat them.
POrt t JOhn is an isolated community not yet commecialised or indoctrinated by Wester living in other words traditional African.
We stay the night at the Amopaondo Backpackers hostel and meet our fellow volunteers.
Thursday, 10 January 2008
Wine Tour
Today is our last day in Cape Town and also the day of our wine Tour. It is also hot 32degrees and that's centigrade.
Our tour operator arrived at 8 am to take us to Cape Town to pick up some Brazilian teachers (I didn't ask them if they had one) Then we headed for Franchoek. Wine production in this area started in the 1800's when a group of French Huguenots settled in the area. A chap from the Dutch East India Company got production going by integrating the French into the Dutch community. The tow has a wild west feel with one tree lined main street running through it's middle with wide gabled buildings on either side. After a quick walk around we had a mountain bike ride around the surrounding countryside to work u a thirst.
Our first winery was the Le Grande estate. Very quiet and peaceful and a pleasant atmosphere t start our wine tasting of their 5 wines finishing off with a very nice Muscadet.
Next we visited Stellenbosch - the heart of Afrikanerdom and the site of South Africa's second university and also our next vineyard. Six ore glasses of six different wines and it was time for lunch followed by a tour of the cellars and the wine making machinery. This was a small scale operation compared to some of the estates.
Our final vineyard was a more commercial outfit which had expanded into a cheetah awareness project where visitors could get up close to some captive cheetahs - something to do before the wine tasting.
All in all a pleasant way to end off a week in Cape Town and listening to the stories from other volunteers which are too many to mention now.Tomorrow it's off to Annaponpondo with a 22 hour coach trip so no post tomorrow.
Our tour operator arrived at 8 am to take us to Cape Town to pick up some Brazilian teachers (I didn't ask them if they had one) Then we headed for Franchoek. Wine production in this area started in the 1800's when a group of French Huguenots settled in the area. A chap from the Dutch East India Company got production going by integrating the French into the Dutch community. The tow has a wild west feel with one tree lined main street running through it's middle with wide gabled buildings on either side. After a quick walk around we had a mountain bike ride around the surrounding countryside to work u a thirst.
Our first winery was the Le Grande estate. Very quiet and peaceful and a pleasant atmosphere t start our wine tasting of their 5 wines finishing off with a very nice Muscadet.
Next we visited Stellenbosch - the heart of Afrikanerdom and the site of South Africa's second university and also our next vineyard. Six ore glasses of six different wines and it was time for lunch followed by a tour of the cellars and the wine making machinery. This was a small scale operation compared to some of the estates.
Our final vineyard was a more commercial outfit which had expanded into a cheetah awareness project where visitors could get up close to some captive cheetahs - something to do before the wine tasting.
All in all a pleasant way to end off a week in Cape Town and listening to the stories from other volunteers which are too many to mention now.Tomorrow it's off to Annaponpondo with a 22 hour coach trip so no post tomorrow.
Wednesday, 9 January 2008
Photo's
Today I was going to post some photo's but I am conscious that many of my readers will be jealous of the sandy beaches, sunshine etc that will have to wait. Well until I've sussed how to upload some photo's.
Tuesday, 8 January 2008
Surfing
It is blowing a gale here today. Well there is a strong wind which is keeping the temperature down. I did pass a sign to say the sea temperature today was 18.5 c.
The strong winds mean a good surf so we headed for Muizenberg - where all the surfers hang out. Well there was a few but it also where one of the projects is based. The project is a surf school which helps street children by taking them off the streets and teach them surfing as a sport. It is one of the cushier projects but it is a bit boring for the people on the project.
One thing that strikes you around the Cape is the inequalities in life. On one side you have flats selling at R1million yet 50 yards away you have beggers on the street corner. The other thing is security but that's for another post.
The strong winds mean a good surf so we headed for Muizenberg - where all the surfers hang out. Well there was a few but it also where one of the projects is based. The project is a surf school which helps street children by taking them off the streets and teach them surfing as a sport. It is one of the cushier projects but it is a bit boring for the people on the project.
One thing that strikes you around the Cape is the inequalities in life. On one side you have flats selling at R1million yet 50 yards away you have beggers on the street corner. The other thing is security but that's for another post.
Monday, 7 January 2008
Cape Town
Today was a free day. The weather was not brilliant - fine misty rain. Two of us decided to take the famous mini-bus into Cape Town for a bit of sightseeing.
After a quick walking tour past the local Parliament and gardens we found the local hop on hop off anywhere Tourist bus. For R100 (about $7.00) we got a day ticket. The first part of the journey took us around various landmarks of Cape Town before heading to the lower cable car station on Table Mountain. Looking up the mountain we could see the top - a contrast to the morning so we got a one way ticket and decided to walk down.
The cable car is a fairly new version which can rotate 360 degrees in the short time to the top. he views were great across the city below and out into Table Bay to Robben Island where as so many people have told us Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for so many years.
The next job was to find the right path down. There is a walk way for most of the tourists which you can't get lost on but we had to get off this and find one that took us back to the start. Luckily we eventually found the right one and headed down this steep gorge with overhanging cliffs dripping water over us. We passed several people going up the mountain and rest assured them that the top was just around the next corner. The fools!
After a decent lasting an hour and a half we ended up back in the tourist circuit and rejoined the Sightseeing bus for a couple more hop on and offs before ending up back at the Waterfront - the old docks which have now been transformed into hotel/shopping complex and the departing point for trips to Robben Island but sadly I'll have to leave that for another day.
After a quick walking tour past the local Parliament and gardens we found the local hop on hop off anywhere Tourist bus. For R100 (about $7.00) we got a day ticket. The first part of the journey took us around various landmarks of Cape Town before heading to the lower cable car station on Table Mountain. Looking up the mountain we could see the top - a contrast to the morning so we got a one way ticket and decided to walk down.
The cable car is a fairly new version which can rotate 360 degrees in the short time to the top. he views were great across the city below and out into Table Bay to Robben Island where as so many people have told us Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for so many years.
The next job was to find the right path down. There is a walk way for most of the tourists which you can't get lost on but we had to get off this and find one that took us back to the start. Luckily we eventually found the right one and headed down this steep gorge with overhanging cliffs dripping water over us. We passed several people going up the mountain and rest assured them that the top was just around the next corner. The fools!
After a decent lasting an hour and a half we ended up back in the tourist circuit and rejoined the Sightseeing bus for a couple more hop on and offs before ending up back at the Waterfront - the old docks which have now been transformed into hotel/shopping complex and the departing point for trips to Robben Island but sadly I'll have to leave that for another day.
Cape Tour
The Aviva mini-bus picked a group of volunteers up this morning to take us on a full day trip of the Cape. We were 7 of us in total from UK, USA and Germany.
We headed through Cape Town past the site of one of the stadiums for the 2010 world cup which South Africans are really proud to be hosting.
The weather was not brilliant as it had been bucketing down with rain in the early morning but the sun was now breaking through. At Camps Bay we could see the road twisting it's way along Chapmans Drive hogging the cliff behind Table Mountain and the sea. The 12 Apostles were obscured from view by low cloud but we made our way along the road pass several South Afrikaans preparing for their traditional Braai (BBQ). The road used to be very dangerous with rock falls but it was closed for 4 years in the late 90's to allow for a major overhaul with netting and tunnels to protect the passing traffic.
After 6km driving along Chapmans Drive we descended into Houts Bay pretty little fishing Village. Here we were to take a boat trip to see the seals on the appropriately named Seal Island. Whilst waiting I could see seals swimming in the harbour and then came across a crowd being entertained by this old guy who had a large seal in front of him and he was feeding it fish. Apparantly he had befriended this seal over the last few years and it has become tame enough to eat fish from the guy's mouth.
On next to Simons Town the home of the South African Navy and it's old radar station which is now without it's masts. A short distance outside Simons Town is Boulders bay where we saw a colony of Cape penguins. You can get right up close to them and although the beach is an official sanctuary for them you often see them wandering up the road.
After lunch in a nearby restaurant overlooking Simons Bay courtesy of Aviva we headed to the Cape Point Nature Reserve. Just before entering the Reserve we came across a colony of baboons by the roadside who were entertaining the passing traffic and eating any thing that came there way. We were warned they can be aggressive and can snatch food out of people's car so if attacked by one just give them the food!
On to Cape of Good Hope and Cape Point where we walked to the most South Westerly point of Africa. Whilst driving though the game reserve we managed to see some elk and ostrich. They tend to keep away from tourists so we were quite fortunate.
The drive took us back past old haunts of Fish Heok and Muizenberg finally ending back in Observatory.
We headed through Cape Town past the site of one of the stadiums for the 2010 world cup which South Africans are really proud to be hosting.
The weather was not brilliant as it had been bucketing down with rain in the early morning but the sun was now breaking through. At Camps Bay we could see the road twisting it's way along Chapmans Drive hogging the cliff behind Table Mountain and the sea. The 12 Apostles were obscured from view by low cloud but we made our way along the road pass several South Afrikaans preparing for their traditional Braai (BBQ). The road used to be very dangerous with rock falls but it was closed for 4 years in the late 90's to allow for a major overhaul with netting and tunnels to protect the passing traffic.
After 6km driving along Chapmans Drive we descended into Houts Bay pretty little fishing Village. Here we were to take a boat trip to see the seals on the appropriately named Seal Island. Whilst waiting I could see seals swimming in the harbour and then came across a crowd being entertained by this old guy who had a large seal in front of him and he was feeding it fish. Apparantly he had befriended this seal over the last few years and it has become tame enough to eat fish from the guy's mouth.
On next to Simons Town the home of the South African Navy and it's old radar station which is now without it's masts. A short distance outside Simons Town is Boulders bay where we saw a colony of Cape penguins. You can get right up close to them and although the beach is an official sanctuary for them you often see them wandering up the road.
After lunch in a nearby restaurant overlooking Simons Bay courtesy of Aviva we headed to the Cape Point Nature Reserve. Just before entering the Reserve we came across a colony of baboons by the roadside who were entertaining the passing traffic and eating any thing that came there way. We were warned they can be aggressive and can snatch food out of people's car so if attacked by one just give them the food!
On to Cape of Good Hope and Cape Point where we walked to the most South Westerly point of Africa. Whilst driving though the game reserve we managed to see some elk and ostrich. They tend to keep away from tourists so we were quite fortunate.
The drive took us back past old haunts of Fish Heok and Muizenberg finally ending back in Observatory.
Sunday, 6 January 2008
The Cultural Tour
This was billed as a half day excursion.
First thing our rep - Ursula - came to collect some volunteers to take them to an orphanage in one of the townships. She asked if we wanted to come along for a ride and a few of us agreed.
The orphanage is situated in a township about half an hour drive from Observatory. This particular township is a ramshackle maze of corrugated iron homesteads split down the middle by a series of made up roads.
The orphanage is run as a charity with Aviva volunteers operating a shift of working there 3 days and nights and then 4 days off. It is situated behind a high walled fence and comprises a number of one a two story buildings and accommodation of some German volunteers as well who are on 12 month terms. As soon as the Aviva mini-bus arrived some of the youngsters came out to greet us and dragged us inside by our hands. They were smiles all around as they asked to be held and asked for their pictures to be taken. We had a quick look around and went into the baby section where there were about 20 kids some hardly old enough to walk yet they crowded around us and one little girl in particular just buried here head into the side of me all the time I was there. The children are either abandoned by their mothers or taken away by social workers because their mothers are either drug addicts or alcoholics.
After a short stay we made our way back to our house to pick up the rest of our party. In all there were 7 of us. Three blokes myself, Rauul from Canada and Ralf from United States.
Our first stop was to see the remains of what was once District 6. This was a coloured area whch was cleared by the aparthied movement at the end of the 60's. The authorities were able to bulldoze down houses of all the coloured people and resetlle them in home lands on the outskirts of Cape Town with the idea of making this area a white only area. However they were not allowed to demolish churches and schools. In the end the anti-apartheid movement took hold and the site was not developed. What is left now is an open space right next to the the centre of Cape Town with a number of schools and churches standing out in the middle.
We then saw the full story of Distrct 6 by visiting the museum which is a converted Methodist Church.
We then visited the homelands on the outskirts of Cape Town where people were resettled. This is in the Cape Flats area and memories of 40 years ago I recall this being a series of sandy dunes and bushland. Today it houses several districts the size of a city in itself. The government has spent money on the infrastructure to put in roads and build small bungalows to replace the shanty town they were at first but as they do that more unofficial buildings spring up in the form of corrugated sheds.
We made our way into the districts and paid a visit to a local witch doctor who gave us a spiel of how his powers had been handed to him by his ancestors. His "surgery" was a concrete unit, dark and covered in all kinds of animal skins, hoofs and the longest snake skin I've ever seen stretched over the ceiling.
OUr next stop was a local craft shop where local unemployed are taught local crafts such as bead weaving, painting with sand, wood craft etc. Some local children who were at the playgroup gave us an impromptu display of traditional African dancing.
Next was a visit to was is reputed the smalled B&B in Cape Town. A two storey corrugated iron building run by a lady called Vicky who runs her own web site getting business from back packers etc.
Behind the B&B was a creche run by Gloria. She set this creche up to help her neighbours. She receives an allowance of R50 per month per child. ($3.50) For this she provides breakfast and lunch as well as the normal activities for her preschoolers. The parents are not able to support her as they have no money themselves.
After a few more stops and a visit to the other Aviva house in Table View it was back to Observatory.
First thing our rep - Ursula - came to collect some volunteers to take them to an orphanage in one of the townships. She asked if we wanted to come along for a ride and a few of us agreed.
The orphanage is situated in a township about half an hour drive from Observatory. This particular township is a ramshackle maze of corrugated iron homesteads split down the middle by a series of made up roads.
The orphanage is run as a charity with Aviva volunteers operating a shift of working there 3 days and nights and then 4 days off. It is situated behind a high walled fence and comprises a number of one a two story buildings and accommodation of some German volunteers as well who are on 12 month terms. As soon as the Aviva mini-bus arrived some of the youngsters came out to greet us and dragged us inside by our hands. They were smiles all around as they asked to be held and asked for their pictures to be taken. We had a quick look around and went into the baby section where there were about 20 kids some hardly old enough to walk yet they crowded around us and one little girl in particular just buried here head into the side of me all the time I was there. The children are either abandoned by their mothers or taken away by social workers because their mothers are either drug addicts or alcoholics.
After a short stay we made our way back to our house to pick up the rest of our party. In all there were 7 of us. Three blokes myself, Rauul from Canada and Ralf from United States.
Our first stop was to see the remains of what was once District 6. This was a coloured area whch was cleared by the aparthied movement at the end of the 60's. The authorities were able to bulldoze down houses of all the coloured people and resetlle them in home lands on the outskirts of Cape Town with the idea of making this area a white only area. However they were not allowed to demolish churches and schools. In the end the anti-apartheid movement took hold and the site was not developed. What is left now is an open space right next to the the centre of Cape Town with a number of schools and churches standing out in the middle.
We then saw the full story of Distrct 6 by visiting the museum which is a converted Methodist Church.
We then visited the homelands on the outskirts of Cape Town where people were resettled. This is in the Cape Flats area and memories of 40 years ago I recall this being a series of sandy dunes and bushland. Today it houses several districts the size of a city in itself. The government has spent money on the infrastructure to put in roads and build small bungalows to replace the shanty town they were at first but as they do that more unofficial buildings spring up in the form of corrugated sheds.
We made our way into the districts and paid a visit to a local witch doctor who gave us a spiel of how his powers had been handed to him by his ancestors. His "surgery" was a concrete unit, dark and covered in all kinds of animal skins, hoofs and the longest snake skin I've ever seen stretched over the ceiling.
OUr next stop was a local craft shop where local unemployed are taught local crafts such as bead weaving, painting with sand, wood craft etc. Some local children who were at the playgroup gave us an impromptu display of traditional African dancing.
Next was a visit to was is reputed the smalled B&B in Cape Town. A two storey corrugated iron building run by a lady called Vicky who runs her own web site getting business from back packers etc.
Behind the B&B was a creche run by Gloria. She set this creche up to help her neighbours. She receives an allowance of R50 per month per child. ($3.50) For this she provides breakfast and lunch as well as the normal activities for her preschoolers. The parents are not able to support her as they have no money themselves.
After a few more stops and a visit to the other Aviva house in Table View it was back to Observatory.
Saturday, 5 January 2008
Arrival
After an overnight flight from the UK finally arrived in Cape Town for a week of sightseeing before going off to the project.
I was met at the airport by Ursula - the Aviva rep and along with three other travellers we went to our hostel in Observatory just a few miles outside CapeTown with the imposing Devils Peak mountain to our south. Observatory lies between Cape Town University and Groote Schoor Hospital where they carries out the first heart transplant.
The efficiency of Aviva is impressive. We were all given a welcome pack which consists of a bottle of wine, crisps, dried ostrich meat and some sweets to consume. In addition we were given a local sim card and pre-paid vouchers for mobile and land lines.
The hostel is a single story building nestling behind the local MacDonalds. It is a single storey building surrounded by electric fence and a weird entry system. There are three dormatories - two for the women (I think it because they have to carry make up bags) and one for the blokes. Each room sleeps 4 so in total can cater for 12 volunteers.
Today I think we are full with volunteers from USA, Canada and the UK. Some of the volunteers are working on projects in Cape Town while others are just in transit.
After introductions we expereienced our first ride in the local mini-buses. These are small Toyoto vans which ply up and down the main roads and stop on demand to pick up and put down their passengers. The guide books says "It is a cheap form of transport where you get to mingle with the locals" We travelled to Camps Bay to get something to eat and some sunbathing. The cost to get there was R9 which is about 70p. Getting back was a little more difficult as we had to do some haggling and by the time we were halk a mile down the road realised that it was going to be a R25 each. But compared with UK prices!
I was met at the airport by Ursula - the Aviva rep and along with three other travellers we went to our hostel in Observatory just a few miles outside CapeTown with the imposing Devils Peak mountain to our south. Observatory lies between Cape Town University and Groote Schoor Hospital where they carries out the first heart transplant.
The efficiency of Aviva is impressive. We were all given a welcome pack which consists of a bottle of wine, crisps, dried ostrich meat and some sweets to consume. In addition we were given a local sim card and pre-paid vouchers for mobile and land lines.
The hostel is a single story building nestling behind the local MacDonalds. It is a single storey building surrounded by electric fence and a weird entry system. There are three dormatories - two for the women (I think it because they have to carry make up bags) and one for the blokes. Each room sleeps 4 so in total can cater for 12 volunteers.
Today I think we are full with volunteers from USA, Canada and the UK. Some of the volunteers are working on projects in Cape Town while others are just in transit.
After introductions we expereienced our first ride in the local mini-buses. These are small Toyoto vans which ply up and down the main roads and stop on demand to pick up and put down their passengers. The guide books says "It is a cheap form of transport where you get to mingle with the locals" We travelled to Camps Bay to get something to eat and some sunbathing. The cost to get there was R9 which is about 70p. Getting back was a little more difficult as we had to do some haggling and by the time we were halk a mile down the road realised that it was going to be a R25 each. But compared with UK prices!
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